Orchids are popular house plants and make a beautiful addition to house plant displays. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common type of orchid grown in the UK. Flowering over a long period, they're available in an increasingly wide range of flower colours.
The popularity of moth orchids has led to other types of orchids becoming more available to grow as house plants. These include Dendrobium orchids, Paphiopedilum orchids, Oncidium orchids, Vanda orchids and Cambria hybrid orchids. These are all easy to grow in most homes, producing dramatic displays of exotic blooms.
How to care for orchids
Watering
The roots of moth orchids change colour, depending on the plant's moisture levels – when they're green they're fully hydrated so don't need watering, but when they're silver they're dry and can be watered. Always check the roots before watering and use lukewarm water so as to no shock the plant.
For other orchids, such as Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Miltonia and Oncidium, the best way to know when to water is by feeling the weight of the pot. If the leaves and stems are heavier than the growing medium, this is a perfect time to water.
For specialist orchids like Paphiopedilum or Phragmipedium, use either rainwater or filtered water, as they can be sensitive to tap water.
There are two ways to water orchids: submersion and watering from the top.
Submersion involves placing the bottom quarter of the plant's pot in lukewarm water for around an hour. You can add orchid fertiliser to the water, too, which the roots will absorb. After an hour, lift the pot out of the water and allow it to drain before placing it back in its usual spot.
Watering from the top is quicker than submersion and is less likely to lead to root rot. But you will need to water your orchid more often than if you submerse the pot. Always allow the pot to drain and never leave the orchid sitting in water.
Vanda orchids don't grow in compost but grow with their roots loose in the air. To water them, simply submerge the rootball in lukewarm water for a couple of hours.
Light
Most orchids need bright but indirect light, as too much sunlight can scorch the leaves. Keep them an east- or west-facing windowsill from spring to autumn, but move your orchid to a south-facing windowsill for the winter months, when light levels are lower.
Most indoor orchids come from humid, tropical regions, so need a humid atmosphere. In most centrally heated homes the air is dry, so mist the foliage every two to three days using tepid water (avoid spraying the flowers), or stand the pot on a tray of damp gravel.
Different types of orchid need slightly different care, so it can be useful to keep the plant label after purchase. But, broadly speaking, grow orchids in specialist orchid compost, avoid watering them too much, and feed with orchid fertiliser from spring until autumn.
Compost
Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Vanilla and Zygopetalum orchids need air to circulate around their roots, so are best grown in orchid compost, which is essentially pine bark. Use a larger grade (8-15mm) for moth orchids and cymbidiums, and a finer grade (5-8mm) for other types. Finer grade orchid bark is usually available only from specialist suppliers.
For other orchids, like Phragmipedium and Paphiopedilum, professional growers recommend to handmade mix of coconut coir, bark, perlite and sphagnum moss (at a ratio of 1:1:0.5:0.5).
Vanda orchids are epiphytes, and are grown without compost.
Fertilisers
Orchids don't rely on fertilisation as much as other house plants. Feed using a specific orchid fertiliser only – you can buy orchid foliar sprays that give orchids all the nutrients they need, which they absorb through their leaves.
Temperature and humidity
Normal household temperatures of around 15℃ – 30℃ are fine for orchids. Humidity is rarely an issue but keep them away from operating radiators. Mist the leaves every few days to increase humidity, if necessary.
Pruning
Remove any spent flowers as they yellow, using a clean pair of scissors. Don't prune off any yellowing leaves that are still plump as the orchid will be transferring the nutrients into other areas of the plant. Once the final flower has dropped from the stalk, cut the stalk back by half to encourage a new branch of flowers to emerge.
For orchids that have small pseudobulbs at their base, such as Cymbidium, Cambria, Miltonia, Miltoniopsis, Oncidium and Zygopetalum, avoid cutting off any yellowed or browned bulbs, which provide nutrients and moisture for the plant.
Staking
Orchids always come with vertically upright canes to support the flowers. Although they'll continue to flower upright, they don't need staking, as the flowers naturally hang freely in the wild. With this in mind, it's entirely up to you if you'd like to have vertically-upright flower stalks, or ones that hang pendulously.
How to repot orchids
Most orchids need repotting every three to four years, into the next sized transparent plastic pot, using orchid compost. For specialist orchids, such as Paphiopedilum and Phragmipedium, make your own mix of coconut coir, bark, perlite and sphagnum moss, at a ratio of 1:1:0.5:0.5. For jewel orchids, use either sphagnum moss or a hand-made mixture of coconut coir, perlite and bark, at a ratio of 1:1:1.
- While still in its original pot, give the plant a good soak 12 hours before repotting, to reduce transplant shock.
- Remove the orchid from its pot and gently shake the root system to drop any loose bark. Roots that are healthy and still fused to bark pieces should be left on the plant, as removing them could damage the root. Remove any brown or softened roots using clean scissors.
- Fill the bottom fifth of the new pot with orchid compost and then place the rootball on top, ensuring the leaves will sit proud of the top. Fill around the roots with more bark and tap the pot to remove air pockets. Water and allow to drain.
How to propagate orchids
Phalaenopsis (moth orchids)
Moth orchids can be propagated from small offshoots that grow from the flower stalk. These need to have at least three leaves and a root that's more than 5cm in length. Moth orchids can take three years to produce offshoots, so you'll need to be patient. If yours has one, cut the flower stalk that's connecting the orchid 3cm above and below the offshoot. Then fill the bottom quarter of a 7cm clear orchid pot with fresh orchid compost, before placing the offshoot's roots on top. Add more bark around the roots before tapping the sides of the pot to remove air pockets. Keep the offshoot on a bright, sunless windowsill and water once a week.
Dendrobium
Dendrobiums can be split at the base where multiple stems are fused together, or via offshoots that develop along the stems themselves. Use a clean knife to split the chosen stem from the base, which should have at least three healthy leaves attached. Tease the cutting's roots from the rest of the rootball and repot it in a 7cm pot of orchid compost. Keep the cutting on a bright, sunless windowsill and water regularly.
Bulbophyllum, Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Oncidium, Zygopetalum
Propagate these orchids by dividing mature pseudobulbs at their base. Use a clean knife to make the split, and pot into a 10cm transparent pot filled with orchid bark. keep on a bright, sunless windowsill and water regularly while the cutting develops roots.
Vanilla orchids
Take 10cm cuttings from the very tip of any stem and pot it into a 7cm pot filled with orchid bark. Keep on a warm, sunless windowsill and water regularly while the cutting develops roots.
How to encourage moth orchids to flower again
With moth orchids, once all the flowers have fallen, cut off the stem just above a visible joint (node). This may stimulate the production of another flower stem, which you can clip to a support if you would like to. If no shoot appears and the original stem turns straw-coloured, then remove it at the base. Most other orchids won't flower twice on the same stem, so cut off spent stems immediately.
Common issues
Leaves
Yellowing leaves are normal but if lots of the leaves turn yellow over a short space of time, it could be that the orchid is not getting enough light. Move it to a lighter spot, such as on a north- or north-east facing window, and see if the situation improves.
Sun scorch will appear as light-brown leaves that feel floppy when touched. Relocate the orchid to another spot with less direct sunlight.
Roots
Root rot is common with over-watered orchids. Take the plant out of its pot and remove any brown or rotten roots. Then remove as much bark as possible, leaving any bark fused fragments attached to the root. If less than half of the rootball has rotten, use the original pot with fresh orchid Bark. For orchids with more than half of the roots rotten, use the next size pot down.
Flowers
Sudden flower loss is common with newly purchased orchids, thanks to the shock of a new environment. There’s nothing you can do for now except to wait for a new stem to emerge and mature before seeing another show of flowers.
No flowers could be caused by too little light or nutrient deficiency. Feed your orchid once every third watering, using an orchid fertiliser.
Pests
Mealybugs are small white insects that make white cotton-like 'fluff' across the leaves and stem joints of the plant. This includes its flowers, leaves, and under the leaves. Use a cotton bud to remove these as and when you see them.
Fungus gnats lay eggs in damp compost, so reduce watering to dry it out and cut their lifecycle.
Spider mites may attach to Cambria/Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, Oncidium or Zygopetalum orchids. Use a damp soapy cloth to wipe both sides of the leaves to remove them.
Advice on buying orchids
- Always read the growing advice before buying – most orchids need a warm, humid environment, but some do best in cooler and drier conditions
- Choose the right orchid for the growing conditions you have
- Always check orchids for signs of disease or damage before purchasing
Where to buy orchids
Orchid varieties to grow
Miltonia orchid
Miltonia are also known as 'pansy orchids' as their flowers have 'faces', just like pansies do. They do best in cooler temperatures from 12-15°C (55-60°F) but are forgiving of temperature fluctuations. Keep them somewhere bright, but not in full sunshine.
Cymbidium orchid
Cymbidium orchids need cool conditions – a minimum 10°C (50°F). To flower they need a distinct drop in temperature between day and night from mid- to late summer – you achieve this by putting the plants outside from June to September. In the house, they need bright but indirect light. Watch our video guide to caring for cymbidiums.
Odontoglossum orchid
Unlike most orchids, Odontoglossum orchids do well in low light levels - a north-facing windowsill is ideal. They hail from the Andes, so need cool, fresh, airy conditions and a minimum temperature of 10°C (50°F). High levels of humidity are required so place on a tray of damp pebbles.
Dendrobium orchid
Dendrobium orchids do best with a temperature of at least 16-18°C (61-65°F) and less humid environment than many other orchids. Reduce watering in autumn, and move plants to a bright windowsill or porch, where they can remain cool and dry until spring. Then, when temperatures start to increase again, increase watering and bring indoors.
Phalaeonopsis orchid
Moth orchids, or Phalaenopsis, are widely available and easy to grow. They do well in centrally heated homes (they need a minimum temperature of 16°C (61°F), in a spot with bright, filtered light, such as close to an east-facing window. They need humidity, so do well in kitchens and bathrooms.
Paphiopedilum orchid
Paphiopedilum, or slipper orchids, like humidity and moderate temperatures - at least 13°C (56°F). Types with spotted leaves like it warmer. They grow on the floor of rainforests so are adapted to low light but need high humidity. Move to a cool, bright spot in winter.
Oncidium orchid
Oncidium orchids, or dancing ladies usually flower in summer and may go dormant for a while. They will appreciate a spell outside in summer. They like bright light - close to an east window is ideal and a moderate temperature of around 12-15°C (55-60°F).
Frequently asked questions
What do I do with my orchid after the flowers fall off?
Orchids are perennial, meaning they can produce flowers reliably each year. For moth orchids, cut the stalk back by half and it should produce a new branch of flowers within three months. For all other orchids, cut the flower stalk back to the base.